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My New Youtube Channel

I haven’t written in a while – have been busy with work and other projects. Speaking of the latter, one of those projects has been finally trying doing some proper-ish Youtube videos. I’ve had a Youtube channel for years (BradH – now defunct), but the videos I did there were all of the shaky handycam, no speaking type. The new videos I’m doing have much better lighting, sound and some are even mini documentary style.

Anyway, the new channel is Tech Time Traveller. Check it out if you love vintage gear!

The channel obviously will focus on vintage computers mostly, but also other tech. There will be documentaries, show’n’tells (titled 8BitBites), repairs and builds. Should be lots of fun.

And of course I’m not abandoning this blog, I see I need to do some… updates.. heh. 🙂 All in due time!

Brad’s 2-5-2-2 Perfect PCB Toner Transfer Process

When I got started with making my own printed circuit boards (PCBs), I found a plethora of ways and methods. However, very few seemed to work properly. Toner transfer seemed the most straightforward, with several companies offering special papers designed to make the process easy. But these were expensive, and the results were not nearly as good as promised.

The best toner transfer method seemed to be the old toner transfer-to-magazine paper trick, but I always ended up with a few missing traces in the end. However, after doing some experimentation, I discovered a ‘process’ that seems to yield the right result almost every time! I call it my 2-5-2-2 Perfect PCB Toner Transfer Process. Here it is.

Print your PCB Artwork

This is the easy bit. Assuming your artwork is all to scale (and reversed – don’t forget if you don’t mirror image your artwork, when you iron it it will appear backwards). You simply print it from something like photoshop to a decent laser printer. I use an HP LaserJet 4250. The toner itself seems to be a point of contention, with some saying the compatible toners don’t work. However mine has a compatible cart and works fine.

Carefully tear out a piece of magazine paper from a… magazine. You want something glossy but not too glossy. I pull out the regular pages from HotRod Magazine. Their paper is really good quality. Plus, I can read about awesome car projects I’ll never be able to afford!

When printing, the crucial thing is to make sure the printer knows what type of paper it’s handling. I use Photoshop, so in the printer settings I tell it the paper is heavy glossy. This causes the printer to do two things: 1) draw from the manual feed tray and 2) pull at a slower speed so more toner affixes to the page. You want this because you want the toner to be solid and not too thin, otherwise it won’t protect your traces from the etchant properly.

Once printed, you’re ready to prep your copper clad.

Prepping the Copper Clad

This is very important. Copper needs to be slightly roughed up for your toner to get a good grip on it. I use a Scotchbrite pad and some Comet, dry, not wet and I scrub at it like crazy for at least a minute, everywhere I can in random patterns. I then rinse in fairly warm water until clean. Next, I wipe the board down with some paper towel and acetone.

Ironing

This is the bit that always trips people up. Many recommend ditching the iron for a laminator. But if you don’t have the money to dish out on fancy new equipment, an iron (you don’t care about) will do just fine. It’s all about technique, heat, and pressure. First, set your iron to the hottest setting (usually cotton). Do not set it for steam. You don’t want steam at all here.

Next, put your copper clad on your work surface (in my case, it was a kitchen counter) with the copper side up. Place a piece of parchment paper over it. Set a timer for 2 minutes and begin moving the iron slowly back and forth, up and down, all over the board to get it nice and hot.

The reason I use parchment is because I found magazine paper/ink will melt and become gummy, binding on your iron. Over time, this will wear off the non-stick coating on the iron surface. The parchment paper reduces friction considerably.

When your timer goes off after 2 minutes, remove the iron and parchment paper.

Now you’re ready to align your magazine paper with the artwork printed on it. Align it over the board and do not let the magazine paper touch the board until you have centered or aligned properly. The second it makes contact with the hot copper, it’ll stick.

Bring the magazine paper gently onto the copper clad surface. Now place your parchment paper over it.

Set your timer for 5 minutes and start ironing the whole of the magazine paper underneath. What I do here is a few ‘sweeps’ from side to side, sort of ‘laminator like’. Slow and with lots of pressure. Then I imagine in my mind’s eye where the traces and pads are and give a fair bit of pressure (not too much) and put a bit of extra pressure on the tip of the iron to get all those places pressed down nicely. I also do a lot of light sweeps back and forth, up and down all over the place to get the heat nice and even.

When your timer goes off after 5 minutes, remove the iron and set it aside. Leave everything else as is.

Set your timer for 2 minutes, and walk away. I honestly do not know why but this ‘cooling process’ seems to help. While giving it a rest, fill a sink or bucket with cold water. This is what the PCB will be dunked into once we’re done.

When your timer goes off after 2 minutes, set it for another 2 minutes. Take your iron and again repeat what you did for the previous 5 minutes. Really work the iron one more time along where traces, pads, etc will be.

When your timer goes off after 2 minutes, remove the iron, put on an oven mitt. Remove the parchment paper, then grab the board. The paper should be firmly stuck to it. Dunk it directly into your sink. Let it sit for a good couple minutes. The longer it sits, the more the water will break down the fibers of the paper and make it easier to separate from the board and toner. Gently peel the paper away, following the directions of traces where possible.

Voila! A nice, crisp transfer! And no need to spend money on fancy blue stuff!

Now you can trim off the excess, and proceed to your favourite etching method. I will discuss mine in a future post.

TV Typewriter Redux Redo

When we last left off, I had found, to my great excitement, some actual vintage 1973 PCB copper clad stock.  And I was delighted; this gave me the opportunity to go the ‘last mile’ in authenticity.  It meant my TV Typewriter would be composed approximately 95% of vintage parts!

Of course, this presented a problem.  Since I had gone ahead and built my TVT with the new board stock, it would mean (ugh) taking it all apart and redoing it on new boards.  I really wasn’t keen on starting over again.  It was really tempting to just finish it off and carry on.  But events forced my hand.

The first was my acquisition of a vintage, original TV Typewriter construction booklet!!   This was the guide Radio Electronics would mail you for a fiver.  It had a reprint of the original article, as well as schematics and, crucially, the full size PCB layouts!

It’s quite amazing to have one of these in my hands!

You’ll recall to create my TVT boards I had relied on scans of the plans on SWTPC.com.  These were very useful, but unfortunately the scan quality was not great.  And these were afflicted with another problem: scanner distortion.   The original artwork was printed at full size in the construction guide, and since the writers didn’t expect as yet unborn children to be relying on scanned copies, there was no scale provided.  I did my best to scale it up, measuring against actual ICs.  I figured if I got the IC pad spacings right, the rest would fall into place.  I was wrong.  I had noticed as I built that some things seemed a little cramped.  But again, with only photos or scans to rely on, I had no way of being sure my dimensions were out.  However, now with the originals guide in hand I could compare.

I had thought I’d be out by maybe a quarter inch or less.  In fact, I was out by a full half inch all the way around.  This was confirmed by the arrival of my brand new one-off Signal 24-1A transformer, which Signal Transformer themselves had resurrected for me.  Looks pretty sharp, eh?

Buuut… it doesn’t fit.  The transformer actually cuts into the area where the three other boards plug in.  Ugh.

Another thing which I had neglected to do was read the instructions.  For this, I had no excuse – they were there in black and white in the scans on SWTPC.com.  The manual warned specifically to proceed in stages, but as I was a bit too eager to get going, I had built the boards completely out of order and simply as parts arrived.  This was a mistake.  The order of construction is just as important as anything else; by proceeding in a specific order one step at a time, you are able to isolate potential problems as you go.  This is invaluable.

Thus the decision is made: I must re-do.  De-soldering will be painful, but a valuable lesson has been learned.  And anyway, I can at least get that last squeeze of authenticity out.

 

I’ve been working on my pin and eyebar bridge for my Coquihalla canyon scene on and off for months.  Much of it has been guesswork – the actual place (now a park) was closed for a while due to a rockslide that damaged one of the original bridge footings – and with guesswork comes mistakes.  Details missed.  And some things you just can’t figure out from pictures, like the width of the deck.  Some things I deduced, but even then I didn’t trust my numbers, because you tend to remember things being much larger than they actually were.  I was doing my best though, not having the opportunity to get into the field, and I think it was coming pretty close.  However new photos, especially a few aerials from the talented photographer Andrea Coughlin, kept coming up with info that contradicted what I thought I knew.  The eyebars that rise diagonally from bottom left to top right of each ‘panel’ in each truss I thought were oriented one way the whole length.  Nope.  Midway through the bridge on the 5th panel they switch directions.  Also discovered that the east end of the bridge features lacework rather than eyebars, just like the west end.  I still didn’t see anything that answered my question about whether there was any sort of reinforcement under the bridge deck where the rails would be. Along the way I was learning a lot about processes for creating such tiny parts.  I discovered rather than installing all four bottom eyebars for each panel painstakingly with styrene (which loved to warp and get stuck to one another with glue), I could just cast them as one piece.  I started thinking, man, if I had known all of this before, I could have been more consistent.  In changing techniques on the fly, I ended up with bridge panels that were not even width, nor even height.  The variation is slight and not that noticeable, except to me.  And I am the one I am doing this for.  Darn!  I needed to get to the canyon

So I went back to Othello and I thought, okay, if I notice any more inconsistencies with this bridge, I’ll give a thought to doing a Version 2.0.  Why not?  Then I can apply all I learned.  I eagerly measured the deck width, which in pictures seems quite wide, but in reality is a skimpy 12.5 feet across. I also discovered that the plate girder the ends of the ties rest on has another beam of some sort running parallel to it that the ties were also resting on.  Oh, and that there is nothing beneath where the rails would be.  Just the ties themselves, and the odd crossbeam.  the ties are literally supported at their ends.  That’s it!  Wow.  Those ties must be strong.  The bridge is definitely kind of an odd design: most pin connected deck trusses I’ve seen have one truss per side, but this one has two.  One gentleman speculated that it might be that the bridge, in being recycled from another location due to WWI steel shortages, might in fact have been double tracked in its original configuration, or perhaps had been longer, or two separate bridges.  Interesting to contemplate, although I’m not sure why you’d need to combine two bridges in a space where you only needed one.  Perhaps the Coquihalla canyon is one of those places where you want to put off repair and upgrades as long as possible?

I learned enough there to now proceed with redoing my model of bridge, which had progressed almost to the point of painting and joining the two double trusses.  That’s okay, this will give me an opportunity to put into practice a lot of what I learned as I went the first time.  And I can use my first attempt as a stand-in for the ultimate bridge, so I can finally get the scenery done in there.

One thing about the canyon – it never ceases to amaze me how utterly beyond description it is.  Superlatives don’t cut it.  It blows my mind early 20th century railroad builders managed to put a railway through here.  With 19th century tools!  Also each time I return I find new visual cues and features I end up adding to the model.  I’ll probably be doing that forever, always working just another inch closer to perfection.  I’m very pleased with how it’s come out so far – especially considering I had zero knowledge of modelling going in.  I wanted the Coquihalla canyon in my office, and darn it, I think I may be close to having it!

Othello Revisited.

Way back about 6 years ago when I first started modelling, I chose to begin at what is known as Othello.  Othello was one of the ‘stations’ along the Kettle Valley Railway’s Coquihalla Subdivision.  And the word ‘station’ really doesn’t apply well – there was no actual train station – just a tiny passenger shelter at one end and the section foreman’s house at the other, along with a crew bunkhouse.  

Being new to the hobby and new to the KVR at the same time, I had to make do with the best info available.  Using Joe Smuin’s excellent Mileboards book, I figured out the general lay of the land for Othello and set about to plotting where it was using Google Earth.  At that time I hadn’t ‘invented’ my strategy of printing out aerials in N scale for overlays, so I relied on measurements and guesswork to lay it out on my foam base and get carving.

But there was one flaw.

As I’ve mentioned before, a lot changes over the course of 50 years.  Especially with rivers.  Rivers seem so permanent, don’t they?  But they’re not.  They are dynamic.  Especially mountain rivers.  They are always working like busy beavers, eating away at embankments and rock, cutting a path, ultimately, to the sea.  And as they do their work, they change.  They create and remove landforms at will.  They change course a little.  Or a lot.

In the case of Othello, it was the latter.  When I first visited Othello in person in 2009, I was *lost*.  The old photos showed an idyllic, wide, lazy emerald river lumbering alongside the tracks before making a bend south.  The passenger shelter appeared to sit right on its banks.  But when I went to Othello, I saw no river.  Instead I saw forest.  TONS of forest.  The roadbed was still there of course (it is now Othello/Tunnels Rd. and leads to the provincial Quintette Tunnels parking lot).  But the river?  Couldn’t see it.  And in fact, I came to doubt Mileboards and wondered if maybe the site was further east, because there was a site back there that looked pretty much identical in many respects to the one in the old photos.

In emails with Joe however, he patiently explained how much could change over a few decades.  And now, 6 years later, I finally have my hands on a late 1940s aerial of the area via the National Air Photo Library offered by Natural Resources Canada.  If you’re a modeller and haven’t used a resource like this, I highly recommend it.  I would assume most countries have something similar.  Since the invention of the airplane, governments have been surveying their territories from the air, and Othello was no different.  Only from the air are we able to appreciate how dramatically Othello has changed.

The first thing that jumps out is the islands.  What appears in the Google Earth photo (and on the ground) as a mostly solid mass of land and trees was once active riverbed, with a series of islands along the north side.  In the older aerial, there’s even some bridges to a couple of them!  Wow!  That area is *unrecognizeable* now.  The islands are now just part of the landscape.  And the river is long gone to the south.  And it appears to have taken that chunk of mountain jutting into it in the middle of the old photo completely out!  I don’t know if maybe later highway building crews dug it out for fill or if the river was purposely rerouted for flood control, but the whole main body of the watercourse has shifted significantly south.  Any wonder I couldn’t get my bearings!  It’s clear the section house is, as Joe said, where it always was.. just a few feet further back on the property post-abandonment.  And in fact, the shelter survives also, albeit as a funky bed and breakfast type deal at the Kwakwehala Resort.  There’s some pics of it here, now billed as the ‘Othello Cottage’: http://www.eco-retreat.com/sleep.htm

The thing that I am confronted with now though is whether I’m prepared to live with my Othello scene as it is today, or take the benefit of this new information and bring it that much closer to its historical appearance.  It is tempting.  Although I’m proud of the scene as it is and loath to get into a redo, there is some appeal to the idea of taking everything I’ve learned in the 6 years since I first did it and reapplying it to today.  I’d love to capture a few bits of those islands too if I can.  Wow.  But yes, Tip #1 to modellers: invest in the aerials.  The aerials will tell all.

Just a few more pics of the pin-connected deck truss at MP 49.7 of the former Coquihalla sub.  As posted below, this is the bridge standing between me and being able to complete the first level of my Coquihalla scene and run some trains.  And of course, it is a serious piece of engineering.  For bridge lovers, it’s a visual feast: box girders, laced box girders, stringers, eyebars, pins, you name it it has it.  

Above I did a drawing on computer, trying to rationalize it and understand how its components went together before attempting a model.  I wanted to figure out precisely what supported what, how things interconnected, partly for my own interest but also of course to dictate how assembly would work.

Unfortunately this is one of those situations where HO scale is king and the limitations of N scale become painfully apparent.  First, they do not sell any laced box girders of the type seen on this bridge in N -scale.  They do in HO, of course, but not N.  Initially I was going to fabricate something myself, and had been, using a styrene ‘box girder’ (minus the lace) as my model, I had been casting the legs one at a time using Alumilite.  The plan was to affix lace to them afterwards.  Unfortunately, that plan fell victim to the reality of trying to manipulate lace that is so tiny and fragile it’s almost impossible to manoeuvre.  I tried some etched brass lacing (X shaped rather than W, the plan being to cut the Xs in half to arrive at a W shape) from Gold Medal Models, but even it was the wrong angle, too big, and too unwieldy.  Cutting it to make the W wasted half the lace and warped the other half.   So that died.   I even tried making lace myself using the contraption pictured above.  I pictured sliding up my bridge legs in a measured way and then affixing a dab of glue, sliding in some thin styrene strip, cutting it, then on to next, creating a series of / / / / / down the bridge leg one way, before flipping it and going the other way.  Nope.. nothing doing.  N-scale Fail again – it is impossible to glue with sufficient strength and accuracy when you’re dealing with pieces that small.  Too often glue went where it shouldn’t, and the lace got stuck to the jig.  Scratch that.

So now it looks like we’re going for the ‘best we can do for now’.  N-scale is unlikely to ever have the array of options HO does, but there is a truss bridge kit made by Central Valley with some laced girders I can cut to the right size.  The lace pattern and style is not correct, but, what other option is there?

Hope in 1961.  Am getting some great help in FB forums on identifying buildings.  Apparently the building perched right against the tracks in the first photo had sliding doors and coal on the floor.  Not sure what it was for, but in the second photo there is another building way up at the top left, just in the shadow of the highway embankment that looks similar in size and dimensions.  Wondering if they’re both the same thing and what they were actually for?

Morning arrives and the Realistic Water has cured to a point that now if I touch it, it holds its form.  I grabbed an old, small paintbrush that had dried solid with something or other on it, and began ‘stippling’ the top of the water to create tiny mini waves.  Hard to see in photos, but noticeable up close.  I’m very pleased with how this has turned out.  By layering paint and RW, I was able to achieve depth and a little bit of the mottled look rivers have up close. I’m very pleased with it and am going to call it essentially done. 

Union Bar Rd. will be the project tonight.  I have on decent authority it was paved.  My ‘paving’ technique involves using very wetted down spackling, applied very gently with any flat bladed tool of the right width.  My choice this time was a paint mixing tool.  After it’s dry, a light sanding, wipe down and application of top coat should seal the deal.  The trick will be figuring out the crossing at that spot.  Was it wood?  Pavement?  Can’t tell and nobody seems to know for sure.  Guess it’ll be more guessing. 🙂

A few beauty shots with the scene up on the shelf.  The bridge is off-kilter because the base is being tilted to keep the water from pooling at one end of the river.  Looking east, we see the abbreviated run to the tunnels.  West, towards the long-demolished signal tower at CNR crossing.  The green is looking a bit too green for me but I’ll get that with some adjustments when the water dries.

More modelling, more learning.  I’m quite pleased with how my Coquihalla river crossing scene is taking shape.  It’s always kind of neat recreating things that no longer exist – not just the railroad itself and its associated hardware, but also the land and water.  Seeing the river come to life in a form and following a course it hasn’t been in for decades is really neat.  And disorienting:  I’ve been to the site a few times and the changes are significant enough that in my mind’s eye the model at times just can’t look right.  

My first run at the river, as usual, ended in stalemate.  I tried the usual green paint, but it looked wrong here.  Photos gave the water a more brownish colour.  So I tried filling the bed with brown talus, and then pouring Realistic Water over it.  As it set, I’d dip a fine paintbrush with white paint on the tip in and create water ripples/foam.   This produced something closer, but a bit too clear.  I made a mistake too – using modelling clay to try to seal off both ends of the river so the realistic water wouldn’t pour right off the edges.  The Realistic Water very realistically find every nook and cranny and pretty much emptied itself all over the table.  On the plus side, the talus that began to float when I first poured it settled and the whole river bed became hard and fixed in place.  I then began applying lighter dashes of green, and then when that dried, another dollop of Realistic Water, this time with the ends of the river sealed off by DAP white silicone caulk.  I also worked on Union Bar Rd., which I was pleased to see existed in the 1950s and provided one more crossing to do on a subdivision that only had a few of them.  Have to figure out how to handle the crossing: there are many questions.  Was the road gravel?  Or dirt?  Or pavement?  Was the crossing wood?  Pavement?  Black and white aerial photos unfortunately have their limitations.

While the water set, I worked on laying down the roadbed, carefully aligning it with the bridge, and doing some scenicking all around, including the dry, rocky floodplain area.  From the older aerial I could see it had vegetation in a wide swath in the middle, so it probably wasn’t flooded often.  It’s pretty amazing to see that that whole area is wiped out now, the river having broadened and shifted to cover it.  Had the KV stuck around, I guess CP would have needed to figure out another option to the pile trestle at the west end.

Speaking of pile trestle, that’s the next project on this scene.  I’m gathering details (and materials), but it looks like I need it to be about 15’ high, about 180’ long (shortened because I went with a 150’ truss bridge rather than the 130 that was there originally).  Onwards and upwards!